There are huge amounts of companies out there to provide you with seeds of almost every description, and a great source that uses folks just like you to rate their experiences with those catalogs is at http://pbmfaq.dvol.com/list/index.html If you've had experience mail ordering seeds, then I urge you to drop by the site and let them know how things went for you. It may help another gardener make a decision down the road that they won't regret.

Now that you've found your source for planteosis grandis robustissima you'll need to know a few basics about starting seeds. Some seeds require special germinating practices, and I won't go into that because the packet that you receive should be able to tell you if your seeds need cold treatment, or nicking, etc. before sowing. I'm just covering the absolute basics here. So, about 6 weeks before you average last frost date............

Container Preparation
Your containers need to be sterile, especially if you are reusing them. Prepare a solution of 10 parts water and 1 part bleach and soak your containers in it at least 2 minutes. Scrub off any clinging debris, and set aside to dry. You do not want any of the bleach to be present when you place in the growing medium.

Growing Medium Preparation
You can buy commercially available seed starting mediums, and they are fine. They are already sterile and will be less likely to incubate fungal diseases. You can also make your own by mixing together equal parts of vermiculite and peat. The medium should be premoistened to the consistancy of a wrung out sponge, and placed in your containers and tamped down enough to be sure there are no major air pockets in it.

Seed Sowing
If the seed is difficult to germinate, you may want to place more than 1 or 2 into each container or cell. If the seed germinates easily, use only 1 seed. The general rule is to cover the seed to the depth that the seed is tall. Petunias and other very tiny seeds need only a sprinkle of dry seed starting medium over them to anchor them in place. Larger seeds such as pumpkin or watermelon may be buried an inch or so. Your seed packet should tell you of any special circumstances, such as the seed needs light or darkness to germinate. If your seed needs darkness, then I've found the best way to induce that is to seal it inside one of those large lawn trashbags. You'll need to open it to check when the designated germination time has reached 2/3 and check daily after that. Once a little over half of your seeds have germinated, you can generally remove them from the darkness. You'll want to cover the other containers with a clear plastic film like saran wrap or just use one of those ready-to-go greenhouse starter kits that you can find. This will hold in the moisture and keep things hydrated. Don't forget to label them! You'd be surprised how many people forget this one! Once again, when approximately 2/3 of your seeds have germinated you can remove them from their greenhouse environment, and start to give them a bit of air circulation. Try setting up a fan.

Watering
DON'T If you've moistened your medium enough, you shouldn't need to water them until you have the first set of true leaves showing.

Ok, They've Germinated, Now What?

Damping Off
By far the seedstarters worst enemy is damping off. If you've followed the above instructions to sterilze your containers and to use a sterile medium, and removed them from the humid dome and placed them in a location with good air circulation, then you've done the best thing you can to prevent it. But how do you treat it if it still occurs? You can use a soil drench of Captan, or you can use a greenhouse sanitizer like Physan 20, or you can sprinkly milled spagnum moss on the surface of the container, or you can sprinkly ordinary household cinnamon onto the surface.

Growing Conditions Different species may require different conditions, and if your baby plants require something special, the seed packet will usually state this.

Temperature
As a rule, you want to grow your seedling at a cooler temperature than you've germinated them at. 55°-65° is ideal for all but heat loving vegetables. This will help to keep them stocky.

Light
Unless you have a south facing window that receives sun all day, you'll want to provide them with an additional source of light. Cheap cool fluorescentshope lights are fine to grow seedlings with. The lights should be only and inch or so above the seedlings, so hanging them on an adjustable chain that can be raised as they grow is ideal.

Watering
Watering of your seedlings should begin as soon as you take off the humidity cover. Water from the bottom, and be sure to not get them too wet.

Fertilizing
As soon as they have gotten their second set of true leaves, then you can begin to fertilize. Use a low number water soluble balanced fertilizer like Peters, and make sure that the nitrogen content is not out of line is another legginess preventer.

Hardening Off
It's now been six weeks of growing your seedling indoors, and you're ready to put them into the garden. Wait! They have to be hardened off first. "Hardening off" means that they have to become accustomed to the outdoor temperatures and the strength of the sun. Start by placing them outside in the shade during the day. Then put them into the sun for a couple of hours in the morning or evening when the sun is less strong. Gradually increase the hours in the sun, and in about 7-10 day, they should be ready to transplant.

See, it isn't hard! And your garden will thank you!